(fried fish skin, crab, geoduck, pork skin with jelly fish)

This is a piece I wrote for AsianWeek a few weeks back. Ever since then, I have dined at Hong Kong Flower Lounge which was a big disappointment.

Waiting in the lobby at Koi Palace for our table, it is obvious what to order. The two thousand galloon seafood tanks, filled with delicacies from abalone, king crab, lobster, and geoduck entice customers. The exciting part is choosing the right sauces and cooking styles to pair with the fresh seafood found from their creative menu.

Owner Willy Ng credits his success with filling a demand – hungry appetites for fresh live seafood. Although the food plays center stage, Ng prides himself as a restaurateur that provides patrons a dining experience in the four hundred eighty seat restaurant. Walking throw the archway, patrons enter the high ceiling dining room. Sheer draperies, imperial shingles, and mahogany tables create a grand atmosphere. Dressed in charming silver vests, waiters readily suggest food dishes but service is just nominal. Our waiter’s expressionless face and lack of enthusiasm mismatched the anticipated haute cuisine.

A few selections of teas are available, but jasmine with just the right level bitterness and cooling effect pairs well with seafood Fresh from the seafood tank, geoduck sashimi ($30) is about temperature and crunch. Chilled over a bed of ice, thinly sliced geoduck refreshes the palate marrying sea sweet taste and crunch. A quick dunk of wasabi and soy sauce mixture gives a salty and spicy boost. From the idea that nothing is discarded and could be very delicious if properly prepared, the fried fish skin ($8) shatters with one bite. Similar to pork rind texture, fried fish skin produces a savory and nutty taste. The suckling pig ($15) is a must order. Chopped and then neatly assembled, the suckling pig offers patrons a texture and flavor contrast. Roasted till crispy, the caramelized skin shatters in your mouth like the sugar on top of a creme brulee. Best with a dab of hoison sauce for sweetness, the meat is so tender that you could cut it with just a fork. Dunked in black vinegar for tartness, the shao lung boa (minced pork filling wrapped in a thin wonton like skin -$6 for 6) allows patrons to experience a rushing burst of scorching soup surprising the palate caused by the slightest puncture.

My least favorite dish, the squab ($18) is gamey in taste but pairs well with sweet green peas and fragrant lotus seeds. Stealing the show, shanghai crab made two-ways ($35) spotlight a heap of fresh crabmeat sautéed with salty dried scallops and aromatic eggs white – the result is a fluffy dish. Mix the mixture with a bowl of white rice and you’re in comfort food heaven – drizzle some red vinegar for a tangy enhancer. Fried till golden brown, the crab legs gain savory flavor from the salt spice batter complimenting the otherwise bland meat. Cooked al dente, mustard greens (wok fried with minced garlic-$12) features a vegetable dish that harmonizes bitter sweet vegetables with aromatic sweet garlic. For the entire meal, I spent $148 for five.

Ng immigrated from Hong Kong to attend college in the United States. Starting out as a waiter at local Chinese restaurants, Ng saw the void of an authentic Chinese restaurant that serves fresh live seafood with a grand ambiance. In 1996, he collaborated with his family to open Koi Palace. Ng said, “our food attracts people because of our large selection of live seafood, everything is made fresh. Many Bay Area Chinese restaurants have great cooking techniques, but lack operation management skills.” Considering himself as a pioneer restaurateur, Ng orchestrates an efficient assembly line so that customers can receive their dishes promptly. Koi Palaces offers patrons not only an extensive seafood menu but also an ambiance reminiscent of seafood restaurant in Hong Kong.

Consultant hat.
After speaking to Willy Ng, the owner of Koi Palace, I can see why he is so successful. He intentionally separates himself from other Chinese restaurants with an array of fresh seafood displayed in tanks and unique dishes. The fried fish skin and coffee spareibs are a great example. The coffee spareribs is a great balance of sweet and tender meat. Taking risk is a key to successful entrepreneur. He sold three Chinese restaurants he previously owned and bet it all on Koi Palace. Previously to Koi’s arrival, the Chinese restaurant at that very place was in ruins. Ng saw this as opportunity. Additional, his menu caters to a wide range of diners from modest family diners to hi-end food snobs. On the business end, Ng spent a hefty investment on equipment as well. His pos (point of sale) food ordering system also has Chinese so that his staff can better adapt to the machine. This increase efficientcy so that once a food item is ordered, the dish arrives quickly as possible.

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